Another love letter, this time for Tony

(If you are reading this post on a RSS reader, click through to Chez Pim for the slideshow.)

I'm writing a lot of love letters these days. I'd better bring my irkable, cynical self back soon or I'd lose all my street cred. But I'll excuse myself this time, for a love letter to Anthony Bourdain. I've just finished watching his unstoppingly entertaining show No Reservations. In this episode he went to New Orleans.

It's not the kind of show that tells you where to go eat, or the kind of critique that warns you the Trout Amandine at Galatoire's was too oily. And it's certainly not the kind of article that's full of stereotypes and mean-spirited comments about the degenerating quality of the food and people in the city.

The New Orleans episode of No Reservations exposed Tony, not as the cranky, sinewy bastard he's constantly portraying himself, but as the sentimental old soul that he truly is. Tony, man, I adore you for it.

I don't know how to describe this particular episode properly with mere words. I'm just going to tell you to find a way to see it yourself, so you could feel the spirit of the people, taste the food, share their pride, their joy, and perhaps even empathize with the palpable pain that the folks in New Orleans are still feeling every day. Katrina happened years ago, but her presence is never far from yesterday.

What was so extraordinary about this show - and so much about Tony himself - is that the point here is not at all about appealing for pity. Pity is the last thing they need. The whole show was brimming with admiration of the resilience that the city and her people show, in the face of seemingly insurmountable odds. Every. Single. Day. I wish I had an ounce of that courage.

The show ended with a poetic, loving, and poignant ode to his city by Chris Rose, a columnist for the brilliantly tenacious Times-Picayune, with Tony making a brief appearance for the last line, "I'm here, why aren't you?"

P.S. The slide show just below is a set of pictures I took when I was there last year, trying to capture that beautiful spirit I witnessed. Check them out. (Click on the photo to move on to the next in the slide show.)

By the way, I'm going to New Orleans again this April for the IACP conference. If you're going, make sure we get to say hi. Together we'll toast the indomitable spirit of New Orleans.

And, happy Mardi Gras! Laissez les bons temps rouler!

Comments

[Food Rockz Man]

Great love letter, Pim. It's a riot how tough-guy Tony is obviously such a softie at heart! I authored a love letter of sorts to him last night . . . in the form of roasted bone marrow . . . a food I was first inspired to eat after reading that it'd be Bourdain's last supper if he had a choice. Unfortunately, the buffalo bone I bought and roasted had no edible marrow. So it was a tragic love letter, but a love letter nonetheless. It's the thought that counts, right?

[Burnt Lumpia]

Thanks for pointing this episode out, Pim. I'm sorry I missed it, will have to catch it on a rerun.

[cjk]

I'll watch the NO episode, but just wanted to say that your photos more than any other I've seen make me want to go to New Orleans again. Thanks!

[Dr. Biggles]

Cheers!

xo, Biggles

[Steph]

I've always loved Tony. For me, it's easy to see through the facade to the sensitive man.
Maybe because we are similar that way!

[bee]

I missed that episode. Should have check the schedule since I was waiting for it when I saw the ad for the new season. I recently returned from my second trip to NOLA for NYE and volunteer. I'm excited to see progress but sad that it has taken so long. Here is a link to my pictures from both trips. http://www.flickr.com/photos/travelingbee22/collections/72157603712088688/

[Tal Greywolf]

Let me state that I have been a long-time New Orleans resident and that only because of my job I haven't lived there since 2002. However, I do regularly visit the city and go to the old haunts that I love, even after Katrina did it's best to push the city back into the Gulf of Mexico.

If you haven't seen the episode, then go look at the television schedule, set the DVR/Tivo and watch it. If you have, then you already know just how biting and poignant an episode this was. And if you haven't ready his interview with Dave Walker of the Times-Picayune, go read it. It makes an interesting addition to the episode.

As for the episode itself... I'm sure the Travel Channel and the New Orleans Chamber of Commerce are very uncomfortable with what was seen. Good. They should be. But it also showed how the citizens of the town aren't going to give up, no matter how bad they may be treated, or how bad things get. You can have your city flooded and blown apart, but as long as you have your family, your friends and your spirit, you keep on doing what you do best, and that's enjoy life.

[Jeremy]

Thanks Pim,
I can second that opinion that Tony is genuine. He interviewed with me on my site and was giving and well not a celebrity about it, he was a fellow chef and really nice!
As for New Orleans it's a place I have passed in transit but would love to visit, my brother spent some time in Lafayette and told me about the young people there who want to learn their French language and culture that was pretty much oppressed by a Anglo first culture! It seems that New Orleans and Louisiana were down, but can't and I hope won't be beaten, especially now with this election!

[nam]

I to was struck by this episode Pim.

It was as you said not his usual. Although it had his usual wit, it was much more sentimental and "political"

I hope that it inspires more people. It inspired me to visit, and also made me wonder if i would have half the courage of those residents he interviewed.
My heart and wishes goes out to all the residents of NO.
Hope to see you soon.

[stljoie]

My husband and I, plus friends, are going for the Jazz fest...it is my first visit to New Orleans and I am considered a virgin of sorts. I am sooo excited

[Barbara Jacksier]

I missed Tony but I'm sure it will be in reruns soon. Great photos. I, too admire the city's spirit. I was there on bizness for the first post Katrina Mardi Gras season, then showed up for Jazz Fest that April to hear the music, visit friends, and show my support by spending my money in NOLA. Listen everybody: Tourism is the lifeblood of New Orleans and it's still in the doldrums. So, go, go go, ya'all!

[loulou]

I'm here visiting New Orleans, but unfortunately missed the episode. Hopefully I can catch it later.
Thank you for writing about this city that I love so much. New Orleans is truly unique, has a special spirit, kind people and serves up the best food you'll ever taste in America!

[kudzu]

Tony has come into my life after several years' hissing at his sexist bad self. Now I see him as his own bad self and it's a good thing. It's an especially good thing to have happen this week in New Orleans, where some of the old magic seems to be reborn. I so appreciate his efforts in the battle. Thanks for giving him credit. (BTW I see his turnaround as part of his positive growth that has evidenced itself in his wry, wise comments that continue to evolve.)

[Kate Hill]

Love letters come in all shapes and sizes. It was a big love letter by a lot of vocal members of IACP to keep that post-Katrina conference in New Orleans as planned. We ARE going, bloggers and fooders alike, from all over the world to celebrate that NOLA rhythm on a plate! See ya there Pimcess! oh and Tony... luv ya too, in Gascony.

[MD]

I live here in New Orleans and was at one of the events filmed in the ep (and Tony's wearing my friend's shirt for part of it...). I can tell you that he doesn't put on pretense at all and is exactly what you see. It's reassuring. I was scared of how the episode would turn out, but I am very very happy with how they portrayed our city. Pim, great essay. It'd be nice to meet you with KH when you're down for IACP.

[foodette]

I haven't seen it, but now I sure want to. Thanks for pointing it out!

[Jules]

I love him as well and New Orleans is my favorite city in the US. I think his episode while trapped in Beirut is quite good also.

[Diva]

Long live NOLA!
I am a NOLA virgin, IACP will be the first time I will visit and i am ready!

I have heard about Tony's show.
Bravo!
Here in Italy, we will see in next year probably!

See you in NOLA with Steve and Judith!
Judy

[Sherry]

I did happen to catch that episode and it was wonderful. Thanks for your love letter too ;-)

[Michael]

Agreed, the No Reservations "New Orleans" episode was very good....but don't kid yourself, Tony is still a cranky, sinewy old bastard! ..he is the "Don Rickles" of Gastroville...
Love you Tony!
keep up the Emeril bashing

[Stu]

I lived in New Orleans in 1983 for six months on my internship. You can't live there and not fall in love with that city.

God bless their hearts.

[eatingplum]

I went to NOLA twice since Katrina to help out. I had a chance to talk to the victims, and what I saw and heard was heartbreaking, and angered me too. I can't believe how little our government has done.

On the flip side, I know this city will live, and the spirit is strong. And Cafe du Monde has unbeatable (and cheap!) beignets. =)

[keiko]

Dear Pim - thank you for sharing this wonderful post, I finally had a chance to watch an episode of No Reservations last time I was in the US and (although it wasn't the New Orleans episode) I loved it too. Watched Spike Lee's When the levees broke also and it made me want to visit the fascinating city myself. Your photos are really beautiful.

[monkey]

Pim, when you go, here's my top ten list HI and LO: http://tinyurl.com/2vc8gm

[oakley]

There is nothing wrong with the "cranky, sinewy bastard". I like him for that. Then again, I do have this weird infatuation with skinny, tall, perhaps cranky but truly witty as hell bastards like Hugh Laurie/Dr. House and Tony.

My husband is one of those. Except I cook a little too well so the skinny part no longer exist. Heh. :)

[flowbee]

actually, the last line was "i'm here... what's holding you up?" (i know, super picky)

i was very touched by that episode as well.