Another reason I love Gascony: Grattons de Canard

(If you are reading this post on an RSS reader, you might want to click through to Chez Pim for the slideshow.) Grattons de Canard. Quite possibly the most perfect food. Period.

What is it, you asked? Grattons is normally made of pork fat. Grattons de Canard -or Fritons as they say in Lyon, apparently- is made of, yes, duck. In fact, it's made of duck fat and skin whose fat has been rendered in the process of making confit. The partially rendered skin and fat solids are then ground up and formed into a terrine.

Grattons are fully cooked, so they can be eaten cold like a normal terrine. But as we discovered at Camont, searing a thick slice of Grattons on a hot pan -not to cook but to give it a brown, crisp crust on both sides- produced a wonderfully delicious result. I had a piece for lunch, served with a big pile of Savoy Cabbage, simply sauté in -what else- duck fat, seasoned with salt, pepper, and a small handful of fried lardon.

As I said, quite possibly the world's most perfect food.

Anyone makes me a terrine of Grattons in America, I'll love them for ever.

Comments

[faustianbargain]

grattons is normally pork crackling and fritons(southish in france) is duck/goose cracklings.

reminds me something a french chef made for me as a snack...its just something he'd do out of the leftovers...i dont think chefs are supposed to eat real food...first thing they teach you in chef school..yes, this is all true..they are only supposed to keep snacking, but are allowed to swallow gallons of really bad black coffee a day..in between one gets crunchy perks like this quick bite...anyways, here goes..take a piece of bread..cut it into nice thick batons. fry it in duck fat...make a bed of sauteed minced shallots on a strip of bacon and place the crispy crouton in the middle. wrap the bacon strip around it and let the bacon sizzle on a hot pan until done. crunch away. i am thinking you'll like this one..

[Thierry]

We should never look at your blog at lunchtime ! Giving so much appetite.

[Derrick Schneider]

Hmm, it shouldn't be that hard to make. Maybe next time I get legs from Sonoma Foie Gras, I'll try it (Hudson Valley legs don't have enough fat to trim and render).

[David]

possibly herbs, wine, a little duck leg meat to help it bind a little...?

[Lucy Vanel]

They are also very good in Chinese dumplings.

[Paul Ting]

What is the difference between a Gratton and a Rillette???

[rob]

Pim, that looks and sounds unbelievable -- duck fat and skin! I went googling for a recipe and had almost no luck. It did seem to me that grattons normally include duck organ meat and that they can also be made with pork. I found one thread which made me laugh out loud because it was so wonderfully French: one person suggests a recipe, and the next person says, "Non! That's not how we do it in Lyon." Then the next person says the lyonnais recipe is wrong because "that's not how it's done in Bordeaux." If you do find an actual recipe, please post it. I'd love to make this.

[Monika Korngut]

Its very delicious. Mmmmmm good.

[Robert]

Great pictures on your site...what kind of camera do you use?

[katrina]

im selling my right kidney right now to fly pronto to france to partake of this delectable pate.

[Dennis]

Pim - Not sure if you have the time to respond, but I read an article in yesterday's LA Times regarding the Alain Passard dinner at Manresa last weekend. How was it? Some of the dishes looked amazing especially the abalone with a "broken" egg and 12 vegetables.

Thanks

[Robert-Gilles Martineau]

Dear Pim!
Greetings!
Well, I discovered a new way of sampling grattons! Thanks, and that's from a Frenchman!
The only excuse I have is that I'm from Bourgogne and live in Japan!
Great pics! You are going to hear about me again!
Cheers and take good care!
Robert-Gilles

[Richard]

I just stumbled accross this thread and I'm drooling. In the Gers in Gascony, a center of duck production, every market sells fritons, even the "Supermarche." They are loose bits of crackling - not made into a pate like the grattons. They are completely addictive. I will be back there in a month and will help assure that the fritons do not go uneaten. I will also look for the grattons, which have been overlooked until now.