The heart of the matter

Fergus Henderson, St.John, from The Whole Beast (cookbook):

"Do not be afraid of cooking, as your ingredients will know and misbehave."

Bernard Pacaud, L'Ambroisie, from Haute Cuisine Paris (cookbook):

"To me, the only real adventure is in the ingredient, in its identity; the china plate must not be more attractive than the dish prepared. Everything goes through the senses: you have to touch, listen to an ingredient in order to understand it."

Thomas Keller, The French Laundry, from The Seattle Times:

"My goal is not to have a menu at the French Laundry. You go with complete confidence in the food, the service, and the wine. What the hell do you need 850 selections of wine for? You're eating dinner."

David Kinch, Manresa, from San Jose Metro:

"I do it because I still like to. I don't want to work in hotels. I don't want three restaurants. I don't want to do 500 covers a night. I don't want to be on TV. None of this interests me. Call me anti-success...but I just want to cook in my restaurant with my crew in my beautiful kitchen and make people happy.

Comments

[JoAnna]

YAY to what the last guy said. He's been reading my mind...except that I don't even want a restaurant (yes I do, no I don't, yes I do, no I don't, yes I do, no I don't, yes I do, no I don't, yes I do, NO I don't!)

[Mike]

Pim-
Regarding the Haute Cuisine Paris book, do you like it? I've flipped through it a few times at the Green Apple a few times and was not impressed. Having said that, I haven't had any quality time with this book. What do you think of it?
mike

[Ore]

Hehe...

I am glad others think the same way I do!

Ore

[Marsha]

Keller talks a good game, but I'm inclined to think he's not being totally honest. I've been to The French Laundry a couple times now and each time the experience is so nerve wracking and needlesly complex that I swear each visit is the last.

Now, Ferguson. I'm not familiar with his work but it sounds like he knows of what he speaks. My ingredients misbehave all the time - beast or non - which must mean I need to change my approach, like Tiger with his swing a few years back.

[Jean-Louis]

Best quote is still from Escoffier (I do not remember from what book, or even if there was such a thing as the source): "Faites simple", which Pim and her readers will know means "Make it simple", but that translation just skims the surface. In these times of worldwide "fusion" trends (la cuisine de partout, et de nulle part aussi), many chefs would do well to remember that line.

[mademoiselle a.]

I love the first statement, it had me laugh out loud. I used to tell my trainees not to be afraid, and if need be, just give "it" a good whack with the sauce pan.

[heather]

I find it oddly amusing that Keller's philosophy is basically how people are with their inner social circle. Do we not go confidently to each other's homes and share meals without menus, without selections, without decisions?