Campton Place Restaurant: The prune is a fig

There are so many dinners I’ve had in the last few months -a disappointing meal at L’Arpège, a great one at Pierre Gagnaire, and many many others- which, for different reasons, I simply haven’t got around to writing about yet. As I’ve said before, if I blogged about everything I did in real time, I would have no life at all, which would –in turn- make for a very boring blog for you to read.

But once in a while, there’s a meal that simply begs to be written about immediately, even if it’s nearing midnight by the time I get home. The Campton Place dinner tonight is one. Why so, you asked? Well, because it is infuriating to see some place that was so very nearly there, with so much potential, stumbled on so many silly mistakes that could have easily been prevented.

I went to dinner tonight truly hoping to love the place, after all, it is really suboptimal to have to drive to Yountville or Los Gatos every time I want a great meal. I’ve heard some very nice things about the chef at Campton Place, and have been looking forward to trying his food. I decided at about 5pm today that tonight would be it, called the restaurant, and was able to get a 7pm table, a little on the early side for me, but as I’ve just come home from a long skiing weekend, the time was perfect.

My dining companion Dave and I arrived at the restaurant to find a very pleasant room that was much smaller than I’d expected, not more than 18-20 tables altogether. This was quite a good sign, I thought, as the small size of the dining room should make it easy for the kitchen to control the quality of the food. Together we decided to have the tasting menu to get a good turn around the chef’s repertoire on our first trip there.

While inquiring about the possibility of having the chef’s tasting menu for the non-shellfish, non-pork eater Dave, we found out that the chef was not in the kitchen that night. I almost balked and ordered a three or four course menu instead, but as we were assured by the waiter that there would be no affect on the quality of the food at all, we decided to trust him and kept our original choice -the tasting menu it was.

Dinner began rather badly, the Billecart-Salmon Rosé that we ordered off the by-the-glass menu were corked, ever so slightly so, but as it was one of our favorite champagnes, and together Dave and I must have had really a lot of this particular wine, the corked effect was rather obvious. The finish was of a wet cardboard rather than the usual strawberry.

The first few courses were mixed. The Skipstone Ranch olive oil sorbet with marinated anchovy tasted just as odd as it sounded. The “cappuccino” of carrots with apple, mango and green papaya was offensive, a confused mélange of thin, foamy carrot juice, thin strips of carrot and green papaya, and some utterly flavorless mango dices. And of the three otherwise pleasant Iranian Osetra Caviar garnishes –Vichyssoise, marinated Suzuki, and Ragout of seafood- one had absolutely awful, fishy tasting, Uni (sea urchin) in it.

But equally as striking was how truly wonderful the dishes that worked were. The “cappuccino” of sea urchin and Dungeness crab topped with a spoonful of Gewurztraminer foam was bright and fresh-tasting, not to mention a brilliant marriage of flavors. The warm “mille-feuille” of Artisan foie gras and apples with cassis jus was quite amazing, beautifully presented with a skewer of thyme to hold the layers together. Both the soup preparations were simply delicious. The squash chowder with Maine lobster knuckles and roasted chestnut oil was inspiring and intensely flavorful. The soup of parsnip with sweetbreads was at once earthy and ethereal.

This was to be the theme for the night, as though it was the intention of the kitchen to send out one bad dish just to highlight how good the other one in the pair could be. The Amandine of frog’s legs with leeks and –albeit mediocre- black truffles was crispy and delicious, with perfectly cooked and delectable leeks that won over even Dave who normally was not a fan of leeks. While its twin, the “torte” of frog’s legs with celery and black truffles was awful, the frog’s legs having been fried in a tempura-like batter that was inexplicably thick and badly soggy. The warm and wonderful “mille-feuille” of foie gras was served together with “l’étoile de foie gras”, two layers of the blandest of the specimen sandwiched between oddly soft chopped hazelnut, covered with boring port wine aspic, fashioned into a beautiful star on the plate.

The meat preparations were equally as baffling. The expertly cooked to the most perfect texture Kurobuta pork was contaminated by a sauce of bad quality black truffles, which claimed to have been from Périgord while tasting ever so faintly of truffles and in the shade of drab-gray, without any discernable marbling indicative of the true Perle Noire du Périgord. If they were truly from there –anything is possible I suppose- I would be entirely surprised. The otherwise nice tasting potato “mille-feuille” –also served with the pork- had an inexplicably sour after-taste. The lambchop and foie gras in yet another truffle sauce suffered the same fate. The lamb -itself cooked to a rare perfection- was covered in a bizarre crust of rancid-tasting pistache, which altogether had an effect of licking a used pan covered in a layer of burnt oil.

The savory portion of the meal ended with a cheese course, which -in yet another strange service mixed up- was served without asking our preference at all. Our main waiter pushed the interesting looking cart –created by the lovely Soyoung Scanlan of Andante Dairy- over to our table, but instead of presenting us with the choices, proceeded to slice whatever pleased him and served them to us. We ended up with a badly constructed cheese course with 3 year-old Gruyère, young-ish Mimolette, and Sbrinz, all hard cheese, with a few almonds and a “prune” as garnishes. The Gruyère was fine, the Mimolette had weird swiss cheese-like holes in it and was rather rubbery, but the worst of the bunch had to be the hard plastic-textured Sbrinz, which was so hard I could barely break it into two with both hands. Also, the prune -on closer inspection- turned out to be a fig! We asked the waiter twice, to be sure that it wasn’t a slip of tongue, before telling him his prune was, in fact, a fig, to which he replied –with not a small measure of enthusiasm- “Great!”.

The dessert course did not do much better. Only one of the three desserts, the Symphony of chocolate and caramel ganache served with a chocolate sable and ice cream and a cocoa nip tuille, was fabulous, while the Quark soufflé was oddly textured, almost curdled, and the basil sorbet offensively sour.

But most disconcerting to us was the manners of the staff when we tried to offer a few criticism. Of course, we were careful to also point out the positive bits as well, but it didn’t help still. Our complaints were –at best- met by the most cursory of replies and –at worst- by a visibly irritated waitress. This, to me, was really the most disturbing. There were so many mistakes, the most unbelievably slow pacing even though the dining room was barely half full was one as well as other confounding service mistakes which –though not major- added up to be quite an annoyance. My wine pairing, a mix of a few good Italian and German wines and also a perfectly nice Doisy Sauterne, was served exclusively in Spiegelau Riesling glasses, yes, white and red alike. We were served from both sides at different times, and at least once saw a confused runner bearing our food came half way across the room only to look around hopelessly for someone to unburden him, and ended up turning back to the kitchen because no one else was around to do the deed. But many of these mistakes could be so easily remedied, had the staff been willing to listen to some constructive criticisms.

Frankly, I would not have been so bothered by any of these things had I found the restaurant with no redeeming quality at all. But that was far from the truth. In spite of the manners in which our criticism was handled, the staff was otherwise enthusiastic and even nice. And most of all, the food showed sparks of brilliance that made it quite hard for either of us to write the place off so easily. Well, perhaps all of these problems could be traced back to the absence of the chef from the kitchen on this particular night, and with all the service mistakes I fervently hope that the floor manager was also missing as well. Perhaps I should still give them another try, and will make sure the chef is in the house next time.

Comments

[clotilde]

A most interesting review Pim, thanks, I really enjoyed the detailed analysis of what was right and what went wrong. I really hope the chef or owner of that place stumbles upon this review, it should give him/her valuable feedback. Has this place been open long? The mistakes you describe are the kind a place can make in the first few weeks, when the kitchen and service are trying to find their marks... It sounds like you'll give them another chance, I hope you'll be rewarded for it by a more enjoyable meal!

[haddock]

Thanks for the review Pim. It's been on the list to try but now seems to have dropped a bit in priority. The new chef is pretty young, which doesn't excuse things, but can explain the polarity. Young people reach and try and fail sometimes before they get a decent repertoire together.

One thing disheartening though was your comment about trying it when the chef is in the kitchen. I understand the sentiment but it's one of those things which drive me crazy. Probably because it's partly true but it shouldn't make any difference if the chef is in the kitchen or not.

I always feel bad for the guys in my kitchen when people get this deflated look or air of disappointment when they find out (or think) I'm not there. Although reading my blog people will know I'm frustrated by their limitations, particularly my whiny Republican sous-chef's, but on the whole have great confidence in them.

[skx]

Oh Pim, thank you for that review. I was Chef Humm's sous chef for a short, short while. I felt accutely all the shortcomings you mentioned. But the chef was such a jerk to me, I had no option but to quit, entirely deflated. So nice to see I'm not the only one who sees mistakes.

[cedichou]

I took my wife to Campton place for her birthday in December. We did not take the tasting menu, but they comped us many little freebies, so that a 4 course menu turned into 7 or 8 dishes. I absolutely loved the olive oil ice cream and anchovies which was one of the freebies. To me, it was one of the most exciting thing I have had in a while. We each ordered 4 different dishes, so we ended up having a lot of those you had. Sweetbread and turnip soup was great, and I loved the pistaccio crusted lamb, it did not have the rancid taste you experienced.
Maybe you were there on an off night. The waitress we had was relatively attentive and charming, even though when we inquired about the tasting menu, she did not know what went in it. "I just came back from vacation", said she. For 4 dishes, it was something like $65, which I thought was a great value, with all the little extras.

[Stellah]

I've been to Campton Place twice now, the first time for my birthday which was just a few weeks after Daniel Humm had taken over the kitchen, and the second, a lunch, 7 months later.. On the first occasion my companion and I had the 7 course tasting menu and it ranked then as one of the finest meals I've ever had, brilliant, assured cooking with many intriguing turns. One of those meals that makes one stop talking because of the need to just savor the flavors unfolding.

I revisited for lunch about 7 months ago now, and also had the tasting menu at that sitting, I found the service then uneaven, and the food even more so, and lacking that vital spark that had made the first visit so special.. I confess, I have no real urge to return.

It's a shame, because as you say Pim, it is so very nearly there.

[jimmy-in-Seattle]

Sounds like they are trying to do too much... That was also hard to read. You sound like a spoiled child. Yes Pim, even the Chef has to have a night off. Did you say you had just got back from a weekend of skiing? So was it a Sunday, Monday or Tuesday night? Those are the likely nights for the Chef to be off. Have you ever worked in a Bistro kitchen? How about in Hotel kitchen? Have you ever been a waitress? Floor manager? Hmmmm, maybe you should only write about places you like. They make for a more enjoyable read from you....Thanks for your effort..............jimmy

[chuck]

i ate at campton place a few months ago for lunch and i was extremely surprised and pleased. i had the 5 course tasting menu, and while i don't remember the dishes, i liked each of them. (i do remember the sea urchin/crab you had and i do remember that being the highlight of the meal.)

in fact, i kinda consider campton place the manresa of the city - similar cuisine w/ similar techniques. (but yes, manresa is better.)

i'd give it another shot sometime in the future as i do believe it's one of the better restaurants in the city (of course, how much is that *really* saying? ;-)

[dave]

Sounds like they are trying to do too much... That was also hard to read. You sound like a spoiled child. Yes Pim, even the Chef has to have a night off. Did you say you had just got back from a weekend of skiing? So was it a Sunday, Monday or Tuesday night? Those are the likely nights for the Chef to be off. Have you ever worked in a Bistro kitchen? How about in Hotel kitchen? Have you ever been a waitress? Floor manager? Hmmmm, maybe you should only write about places you like. They make for a more enjoyable read from you....Thanks for your effort..............jimmy

If the kitchen can't produce a decent meal on a Monday they shouldn't be open on a Monday. If there is food dying on the pass because the Chef is out of the kitchen, the Chef doesn't deserve any time off until his or her brigade is properly trained. It's absurd to suggest that the people eating in the restaurant on a Monday when the Chef is away are to blame for the house being unable to serve a reasonable quality meal.

[Dean]

A bit new to the blogging but wanted to join in on your Wednesday Blogging Idea. I know this probably isn't the best way to contact you with my link but Lenn mentioned I should let you know. Great site. Really look forward to reading more of your entries. Have a great day.

[Ryan]

It's absurd to suggest that the people eating in the restaurant on a Monday when the Chef is away are to blame for the house being unable to serve a reasonable quality meal.

You are right. However, it's a scarcly hidden fact that from Sunday to Tuesday (especially if you are eating fish) you are almost certain not to be eating fresh food. It's not a happy fact, but most restaurants don't have the margins to toss leftover meat or to order fresh after the weekend.

[david]

"If the kitchen can't produce a decent meal on a Monday they shouldn't be open on a Monday. If there is food dying on the pass because the Chef is out of the kitchen, the Chef doesn't deserve any time off until his or her brigade is properly trained. It's absurd to suggest that the people eating in the restaurant on a Monday when the Chef is away are to blame for the house being unable to serve a reasonable quality meal."

Campton Place is a hotel with a restaurant, not a restaurant. Because it is in a hotel, the powers that be require them to be open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It is not the chefs choice. that is a fact and that will not change. What can change is you deciding on what night you want to visit a restaurant that serves 21 meals a week. They can't just close on a Monday. C'mon. Use your head.

[dave]

Campton Place is a hotel with a restaurant, not a restaurant. Because it is in a hotel, the powers that be require them to be open 7 days a week for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It is not the chefs choice. that is a fact and that will not change. What can change is you deciding on what night you want to visit a restaurant that serves 21 meals a week. They can't just close on a Monday. C'mon. Use your head.

They certainly have the option to properly train their staff and use reasonably fresh ingredients. Far be it for someone to expect to be served an entire meal on a Monday at a reasonable pace without encountering something rancid.

If they can't keep up when the house is half empty, how deeply in the shit are they when every seat is full? Or have enough people had bad experiences there to prevent that from being an issue? I've been curious for a while why Campton Place had absolutely no buzz - perhaps its because they don't have their act together.

[me2i81]

The last time I ate at Campton Place, Bradley Ogden was the chef (yeah, that was a while ago). It was very good back then, one of the best in the city. In San Francisco, being inside a hotel is not an excuse for bad food. Also, until they ruined it, the bar at Campton Place was my favorite place to have afternoon tea--an oasis of calm after shopping around Union Square, as it was always empty in the afternoon, and they made good tea and little scones and things.

Of course, now one can't even have tea at the overcrowded and sweaty Compass Rose either. Just where does one go for tea in SF these days?

[Pim]

Thanks everyone for the your comments.

Clotilde, the place has been opened for a while actually. The chef has seen this review and kindly sent us and invitation to go back to try his food again. I am sure I will soon, and will definitely tell you how I like it.

me2181: I don't have tea around here, as it is almost always disappointing. To me, the quality of the tea is paramount, and what I've seen around here is not quite there yet. Much better than before, definitely, but not quite there.

[Ron]

Ryan, what is this notion that you can't be served fresh food in a restaurant from Sunday to Tuesday? I think you may have read Kitchen Confidential too many times. That is simply not true. Thanks....Ron

[Jean-Louis]

Nice posting. I have had a couple of great dinners there, and some fine luncheons too. I think the staff is more awake and with it at lunch, maybe because the customers are more demanding. At dinner, the place tends to cater to hotel guests. The chef is tops and may deserve
a better back up. Give it (and him) another chance.

[Joy]

Such a great review. I was there three days before, on a Saturday night and had a mind blowing meal (http://www.meshsf.com/blogs/2005/02/doo-dah-doo-dah-campton-place-san.html) so I wonder if it's a case of "the cat's away..."? At any rate, it's disappointing that you didn't have an entirely positive experience. I love your blog -- it's helped me in planning my trip to Thailand in three weeks. Rock on!

[Taco]

So, as of June 29, 2006, what are the new thoughts of Campton Place Restaurant of Campton Place Hotel? New Chef, semi-new crew, semi-new sous chefs, new owners....the name stays, but much has changed. I personally haven't eaten at Campton Place Restaurant, but would like to. It's on my list, but also not on the highest as The French Laundry is only an hour away.

[Juno888]

If they were truly from there –anything is possible I suppose- I would be entirely surprised.

[Restaurants in Marbella]

Thanks for some really great information. I visit a lot of restaurants for my work but is still difficult to get good opinions in certain regions and on certian recipes. Sarah M.